Once upon a time in Texas, there was a girl with an appetite and a dream...

1.23.2011

Galluccio DOC

Galluccio is one of those DOCs that doesn't get much attention, and doesn't do much to garner any either. According to this text, there are grumblings of a new DOC for the long-forgotten grape varieties, Pallagrello (nero and bianco) and Casavecchia. They are currently produced under the Terre del Volturno IGT. This could definitely create some interest.

The two Pallagrello varieties were favored by the Bourbons, but were all but wiped out by phylloxera. Casavecchia, however, has much more ancient origins with possible connections to the Oscans. The legend goes that an old vine was found in the ruins of a garden with an unusually large trunk. Cuttings were taken (or maybe even seeds), and the variety was reborn. There is a lot of information out there about these historic varieties, but this is the short version, and is based on the stories that I heard back in 2004 when I was introduced to these wines while living in Ischia

And if the producers can keep themselves from tarting up the end product with barrique to make them "important," we might actually be able to enjoy them.

Text below adapted from: Del Canuto, Francesco et al., Il vino italiano, panorama vitivinicolo attraverso le denominazioni di origine, Associazione Italiana Sommeliers (Bertani & C.), Milano, 2010 (2002), fourth edition.

Recognized as a DOC in 8/4/97

Production Zone: includes the townships of Conca della Campania, Galluccio, Mignano Monte Lungo, Rocca d'Evandro and Tora e Piccilli, all in the province of Caserta.

Yield: Whites, 12 tons per hectare; Reds, 11 tons per hectare

Aging Potential: Whites and Rose, about 1 year; Reds, 1-2 years.

Grape Varieties: WHITE: Falanghina, min 70%, alcohol min 11%; ROSSO: Aglianico min 70%, alcohol min 11.5%; ROSATO: same as rosso but with a min alcohol of 11%

Other types: Riserva, must have a minimum of 12% alcohol with at least 24 months of aging

Galluccio, set in the hills of the volcanic Roccamonfina, is the newest appellation in the province of Caserta. This region, though for now unremarkable, has the potential to make good wine. In recent years some pioneering wineries in the the province are looking to reclaim land for vineyard sites that had long gone to ruin. There is also a movement to reclaim and cultivate some ancient grape varieties like Pallagrello (nero and bianco) and Casavecchia in limited production, and to create a new DOC for them.**

**VERY exciting, in my opinion.

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11.03.2010

Greco di Tufo DOCG

Greco di Tufo is one of my fave whites from Southern Italy. It's fresh and zesty with minerality, which equals, in my book, absolutely delightful wine. Unfortunately, it's hard to find clean wines from Campania, at least in Texas. Maybe that will change. A girl can dream.

Text below translated from: del Canuto, Francesco et al., Il vino italiano, panorama vitivinicolo attraverso le denominazioni di origine, Associazione Italiana Sommeliers (Bertani & C.), Milano, 2010 (2002), fourth edition.

Recognized as a DOCG 7/18/03

image taken from http://caudium.myblog.it

Production Zone:
including the townships of Altavilla Irpina, Chianche, Prato di Principato Ultra, Montefusco, Ptruro Irpino, Santa Paolina, Tufo and Torioni, all in the province of Avellino

Yield: max 10 tons per hectare

Grape Varieties:
greco; coda di volpe is allowed up to 15%

Minimum alcohol: 11.5%

Aging Potential: within 1-3 years

The production zone for Greco di Tufo is in the heart of Irpinia.** In this region one finds sulfur mines, tufo quarries, and a land of vineyards alternating with forests.

Greco di Tufo is an appellation that is constantly improving with more modern techniques in the vineyard and in the winery. A bit of time spent in barrique will can also make this a wine of great potential.***

A young Greco di Tufo pairs well with raw shellfish, baked fish, dried pasta with vegetable sauces, spaghetti with squid ink or shellfish, and flavorful side dishes such as eggplants and broccoli raab (HAY!). When the wine is more mature and rich in personality, it can be paired with grilled mackerel, fish stew, and generally more elaborate dishes. The spumante, made in the Martinotti (Charmat) method, is also very pleasant, aromatic, and interesting.

**The name of the region, Irpinia, is taken from hirpus, the Oscan word for wolf. The Oscans were from Umbria and their language was the language of Southern Italy under the Roman republic. I pretty much ripped this from Wikipedia, so if you find this history as fascinating as I do, just mosey on over to the site to dig deeper. Or just ask my DoBianchi, he probably already has a doctorate in it.

***You must know that this was difficult to translate. I mean, as in gritting my teeth over the woodiness of it all. I, in no way support beating greco over the head with barrique and malolactic fermentation, but we all know that it is a trend in Italia (that NOT all follow!) to make a wine "important" by aging it in wood. You can see old rant here. I hope the trend will pass. Until then, I will.

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